Car Auction Glossary: Copart and IAAI Terms Explained

This car auction glossary explains, in plain English, the terms you'll run into when buying at Copart or IAAI and when importing a vehicle into the Dominican Republic. Each entry covers what the term means and why it matters to you as a buyer. Keep it open while you read a lot page or build a budget.

New to auctions? Pair this glossary with our guides to buying auction cars and how to start buying at auction.

Titles and documents

Clean title

A title for a vehicle that has never been declared a total loss by an insurer. It registers and sells without special restrictions. At auction, a clean-title car usually costs more than a salvage one of the same model.

Salvage title or certificate

Issued when an insurer declares the vehicle a total loss from a crash, flood, fire, theft or other damage. You can buy it, but in many states it can't be driven until it's repaired and inspected. For the Dominican Republic this is critical: a salvage-title car can't be shipped to the DR; it first has to be repaired, inspected and get a rebuilt title in the US. Full breakdown in what is a salvage title.

Rebuilt title

A title some states issue after a salvage vehicle has been repaired and passed a state inspection. It lets the car be registered and driven again, though the "rebuilt" brand stays in its history. Each state has its own process and name for it. For the DR, it's the title a car bought as salvage needs before it can ship.

Non-repairable

A certificate stating the vehicle can never be road-legal again in that state; it's usually for parts or scrap. It's one of the most restrictive documents you'll see at auction. If you want to drive the car, skip it.

Sale document

The title or certificate type the auction sells the lot under, for example "SALVAGE CERTIFICATE (CA)." It appears on the lot page and determines what you can do with the car afterward. Always check it before bidding.

Bill of sale

The proof of purchase the auction issues, with the price, VIN and buyer details. You'll need it for export, customs and registration. Keep the original and digital copies.

Lien

A debt recorded against the vehicle, such as an unpaid loan. A car with an open lien can't be exported or cleanly transferred. At auction the seller normally delivers a released title, but it's worth confirming.

VIN

The 17-character vehicle identification number. It confirms the year, model and history, and that the title matches the car. Dominican customs checks it on arrival too.

Vehicle history report

A report pulled from the VIN that shows reported accidents, title changes, odometer readings and other events. It helps catch problems photos don't show. In the RCA app you can order one as a PDF by VIN.

Odometer status (Actual / Not Actual / Exempt)

Tells you whether the mileage is real (Actual), considered unreliable (Not Actual) or exempt from reporting (Exempt). A "Not Actual" odometer lowers the car's value. Check it alongside the history report.

Condition and damage

Primary damage

The main damage category the auction assigns, such as Front End or Hail. It's a quick label, not a diagnosis. Use it as a starting point and verify with photos and inspection; see auction car damage types.

Secondary damage

A second notable damage beyond the primary one. A car with Front End primary and Undercarriage secondary can cost far more to fix than it looks. Always read the two together.

Front End

Impact damage to the front. It can involve the radiator, headlights, airbags, suspension and even the engine. It's among the most common damage types and among the most unpredictable in cost.

Side

Impact to one side of the car. It can affect doors, pillars and the cabin structure. A hard hit to the center pillar is far more serious than a couple of dented doors.

Hail

Dents from hail on the roof, hood and panels. Often the car runs perfectly and the damage is cosmetic. Repair cost depends on how many dents there are and how big.

Water / Flood

The vehicle was underwater. It can develop electrical problems, corrosion and mold that show up over time. It's one of the riskiest damage types for a buyer.

Burn

Fire damage to the engine bay, interior or the whole vehicle. Heat wrecks wiring, plastics and structure. Outside of minor cases, it's usually a parts purchase.

Mechanical

An engine, transmission or other system problem with no visible body damage. It could be simple or serious; the lot page won't tell you. Without a diagnosis, treat it as a risk.

Undercarriage

Damage underneath: suspension, frame, exhaust or fuel tank. It's hard to see in photos and can be expensive. If it shows up as secondary damage, dig deeper before bidding.

Normal Wear

No specific damage, just the wear expected for the car's age and mileage. Common on rental, fleet and finance-company vehicles. These lots tend to draw higher bids.

Deployed airbags

The airbags went off in the impact. Replacing them, plus sensors and modules, can add up fast. Put it in your repair budget.

Run and Drive

When the car arrived at the yard, it started, went into gear and moved under its own power. It's not a mechanical guarantee and doesn't promise the same condition on pickup day. Still, it's a good sign compared with a non-starter.

Engine Starts

The engine started at the yard, but the car didn't move or wasn't tested moving. There may be transmission, wheel or steering issues. It sits between Run and Drive and a non-starter.

Keys (yes / no)

Shows whether the lot comes with a key. Without one, the car can cost more to move, and you'll need a new key programmed, which is pricey on some models. Filter for it if it matters to you.

Bidding and sales

Lot

Every vehicle offered at auction has a lot number. You use it to identify the car, bid on it and track the purchase. Note it down for any car you like.

Preliminary bid

A maximum bid you place before the live auction starts. The system bids for you up to that cap when the lot comes up. Handy if you can't be online; how Copart bidding works walks through it.

Live auction

When the lot goes up for real-time bidding and buyers bid online. Prices climb fast and the winner is decided in seconds. Show up with your max already set.

Maximum bid

The most you're willing to pay for the lot, worked out from your all-in budget. It's your ceiling: if bidding passes it, you walk. Emotional bidding is the most expensive mistake there is.

Proxy bid

A system, used for example at IAAI, where you set a maximum and the platform raises your bid only as much as needed to stay in the lead. Other bidders don't see your cap. It works much like Copart's preliminary bid.

Buy It Now / Buy Now

A fixed price the seller will accept to sell the lot without waiting for the auction. It can save you from a bidding war. Fees and costs still stack on top of that price.

Pure Sale

The lot sells to the highest bidder with no seller minimum. If you win, the car is yours. It's the most straightforward situation for a buyer.

Minimum bid / reserve

The seller has set a minimum price. If bidding doesn't reach it, the sale doesn't close or goes to approval. The minimum isn't always shown.

On Approval

The high bid fell short of the minimum, so the seller must accept or reject it after the auction. That can take a little while. If they reject it, there's no sale and your deposit goes back to your balance.

Estimated Retail Value

A reference figure the auction shows for what the car might be worth undamaged at retail. It's not an appraisal and not what you'll pay. Treat it as context only.

Deposit

Money you put up before bidding as a guarantee. At RCA it's the greater of $1,000 or 10% of your maximum bid. If you're outbid, the deposit goes back to your balance.

Bid tracking

The status of your bid from start to finish. With RCA's assisted bidding it moves through: Received → Bidding → Bid sent → Won / Outbid. You always know where it stands.

Costs and fees

Hammer price

The final winning bid, before fees and taxes. It's only part of the real cost. Plenty of buyers get burned budgeting from this number alone.

Buyer fee

The auction's fee to the buyer, tiered by final price. In the reference table RCA uses, it's $860 on an $11,900 purchase and 6% from $15,000 up. Fees change, so treat these as reference figures.

Virtual bid fee

A charge for buying through the online platform. In the Copart reference table RCA uses, it runs up to $160. It's added on top of the buyer fee.

Gate fee

A charge for moving the vehicle out of the yard. The reference amount is $95. You pay it even if the car leaves on a tow truck.

Title mailing fee

A charge for mailing the title to the buyer. The reference amount is $15. Getting the title on time is key to exporting.

Storage

A daily charge the yard applies if the car isn't picked up within the free window. It adds up fast. Book transport as soon as you win.

Late payment fee

A penalty for not paying within the auction's deadline. Beyond the fee, you can put the purchase at risk. Have funds ready before you bid.

Broker fee

What the intermediary charges to handle the purchase. RCA's is tiered: $250 up to $5,000; $350 from $5,001 to $10,000; $500 from $10,001 to $20,000; and $700 from $20,001 up ($50 less on the Dealer plan). Always compare fees against what the service includes.

Total landed cost

Everything added up: purchase, fees, broker fee, towing, freight, repairs, paperwork and taxes. It's the number that actually matters. Run it with the auction cost calculator and read the true cost of auction cars.

Shipping and export

Inland towing

Moving the car from the yard to a shop or the export port. Cost depends on distance and whether the car rolls. Checking the lot's location before bidding avoids surprises.

RoRo (roll-on/roll-off)

A shipping method where the car is driven onto the vessel and rides on a vehicle deck. Usually the simplest choice for cars that start and roll. Personal items inside the car generally aren't allowed.

Container shipping

The car travels secured inside a container, alone or shared. It offers more protection and works for non-runners. Timing also depends on loading and unloading the box.

Freight forwarder

The company that coordinates the international shipment: books space, prepares paperwork and files the export information. It's your link to the shipping line. Pick one with experience shipping to the DR.

Electronic Export Information (EEI)

The export data filed in US Customs' electronic system for vehicles. Your freight forwarder prepares it. Without it, the car can't legally leave the country.

Title validation at the port

US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) reviews the original title and vehicle documents before export; the rule calls for presenting them at least 72 hours before the vessel loads. If the title arrives late, the car misses the boat. That's why how fast the auction mails the title matters so much.

Bill of lading (B/L)

The document the shipping line issues as a cargo receipt and transport contract. You need it to pick up the car in the DR and for the first plate. Make sure the VIN and consignee details are correct.

Consignee

The person or company in the DR the vehicle is shipped to. Their details must match across every document. A mistake here can stall customs clearance.

Dominican ports (Caucedo, Rio Haina, Puerto Plata)

The main ports for receiving vehicles. Caucedo and Rio Haina serve the Santo Domingo area; Puerto Plata serves the north and the Cibao. Pick based on where you'll collect the car; more in shipping a car from the USA to the Dominican Republic.

Importing to the Dominican Republic

DGA (Dirección General de Aduanas)

The authority that controls imports in the Dominican Republic. It sets reference values, assesses taxes and decides whether a vehicle can enter. For any question about current rules, the DGA is the source.

DGII

The Dominican tax agency (Dirección General de Impuestos Internos). For vehicles, it handles the first plate, registration and the marbete. It's the last step before you can drive.

Customs agent

A professional who handles the vehicle's clearance with the DGA on your behalf. They file the declaration, review documents and coordinate payment. A good agent prevents delays.

DUA (customs declaration)

The official form used to declare the import to customs (Declaración Única Aduanera). It includes vehicle, importer and document details. A copy is also required for the first plate.

Vehicle year and age limit

Customs counts a vehicle's age by its own vehicle year. The general rule applied under Law 4-07 allows used light vehicles up to five years old. Check with the DGA if the car is close to the cutoff.

Salvage condition (Decree 671-02)

The rule that prohibits importing vehicles in salvage condition. The DGA has restated that such vehicles aren't admitted for road use and may be seized. In practice, a salvage-title car can't be shipped to the DR: it needs a rebuilt title before it leaves the US. Confirm the details of your case with your customs agent.

Reference value

The value the DGA holds in its database for each year, make and model. It's the starting point for taxes, not the auction price. That's why a cheap wrecked car can owe nearly as much as a clean one.

CIF

The vehicle's value plus freight plus insurance (Cost, Insurance and Freight). RCA's calculator estimates insurance at 2% of value. The main taxes are applied to the CIF.

Import duty (arancel)

The import tariff. Under the reference rules RCA uses, it's 20% of the CIF. It's the largest line in the calculation.

ITBIS

The Dominican tax on the transfer of goods, similar to a VAT or sales tax. In the reference rules it's 18% of the CIF. It's paid at customs with the other taxes.

Excise tax (selectivo)

An additional tax on certain goods, vehicles included. In the reference rules it's 15% of the CIF. Together with duty and ITBIS, it explains why taxes weigh so much.

CO2 tax

A charge tied to vehicle emissions. In the reference rules it's 2% of the CIF. It can change with new regulations.

Tax assessment (liquidación)

The official tax calculation customs issues for your vehicle. It's what you actually pay; any calculator is just an estimate. A copy is used later for the plate.

Release (levante)

Customs' authorization to remove the vehicle from the port once the assessment is paid. No release, no pickup. While you wait, port storage can build up.

First plate

The initial registration of the imported vehicle with the DGII. It shows up as $150 in the reference calculation. It's filed with the DUA, tax assessment, title or invoice and the B/L.

Marbete

The road-use sticker that's renewed periodically. It shows up as $30 in the reference calculation. Without a current marbete you can't legally drive.

The bottom line

Knowing these terms saves you from expensive mistakes, from mixing up a salvage title with a rebuilt one to realizing Dominican taxes come from the reference value, not the hammer price. If a term on a lot page isn't clear, it's better to ask before you bid than to find out afterward.

RCA Auto Broker works with you through the whole process, from the Copart and IAAI search to the car's arrival in the DR. For the full journey, read our guide to importing a car from the USA to the Dominican Republic, plus the Copart guide and IAAI guide. Before you bid, estimate your taxes with the Dominican Republic import tax calculator.